On my second full day in Belgium, I headed to Bruges. I got there early enough on a Wednesday to enjoy some of its old streets before the crush of a million tourists arrived, which turned out to be an excellent decision. 

It also meant I was able to get one of the last tickets to climb the Belfry that afternoon, so I had plenty of time to wander around before then.

I explored the market square, looked around some of the surrounding streets, then stopped at a patisserie where I had the most delicious warm sugar loaf with sultanas. It was far too big. Of course, I I finished the whole thing with a coffee then continued walking.

I found plenty of interesting statues and eventually ended up at the Basilica of the Holy Blood, partly because I was intrigued by its striking black-and-gold facade.

It houses a “relic” containing the “blood of Jesus”, collected after the crucifixion and later brought to Bruges. More death cult stuff. I did not pay to go and inspect the blood, but I did check out the chapel before heading off again.

Rather than go looking for lunch, I decided to do a canal cruise. The Bruges tours are only about 30 minutes compared with roughly 45 in Ghent, but it was still a lovely way to see the city.

I’m glad I went when I did because by the time the boat returned, Bruges had suddenly exploded with tourists. The queues to get onto the boats looked at least an hour long, if not two.

I wonder if I should watch In Bruges again and see how plausible it all feels now that the streets are clogged with visitors. It’s been so long since I saw it that I can barely remember the plot or any of the scenes. 

Mostly I remember cobblestones.

The boat tour wasn’t quite as informative as the one in Ghent, but hats off to the guide, who delivered the whole thing in English, French and German. It was still a great way to see Bruges from a different angle and gave me a few ideas about where to wander next.

Once I got off the boat, I had to muscle my way through the very crowded, very narrow streets. It was so busy.

Next stop was a cathedral – yes, ABC: Another Bloody Cathedral – to see Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child. Small, significant, done. I also enjoyed a painting of the Temptation of Saint Anthony, which made it look as though he was considerably more tempted by the pretty blonde angel beside him than by the demon at his feet.

By that point I figured I should probably eat something.

I looked up nearby restaurants, not particularly liking my chances of getting into anything with all the crowds, but somehow found Malesherbes, a tiny French restaurant tucked down a side street.

Miraculously, they had a table available despite only seating about 15 people. The fish and white wine were delicious. Sadly, I was too full for dessert.

From there, I headed back to the Belfry and climbed to the top for an extremely windy view over Bruges. Love a good tower.

Afterwards, I wandered back towards the train station through the Beguinage and the park before heading home to Ghent.

Bruges is ridiculously pretty. It also feels slightly ridiculous when half of Europe appears to arrive at once.

I was glad I’d seen it early, while it was still possible to notice the canals, the old buildings and the cobblestones without also noticing several thousand people.