We had a slow start to the day, which was wonderful. Funnily enough, I was surprised not to have heard from Justin and Voey while they were surprised to have not heard from us. Glen and I made our own breakfast but at 9ish, Justin showed up at our door keen to go get some food. We piled into the car and went to Smash then came home, packed and checked out.

First proper stop for the day was The Grotto. Glen, Justin and I had gone there on Wednesday to take a look but we didn’t swim so today was our chance. The advice we’d been given was to go at 3pm as the light is really good but that wasn’t possible so we just went at 11 instead.

The grotto is a little ocean-fed open cave that has a white sand substrate. Water rushes in and out with the waves, and while it doesn’t appear that you can get sucked out to the ocean, the pull of the water is strong.

We got in, surrounded by red crabs, had a swim and some photos, then climbed out as the rain was returning. 

The next stop was meant to be the golf course lookout but as we went up the steep hill, the engine light in the car came on, and the smell of burning oil assaulted our noses. I stopped around the corner, on the flat, and we opened the bonnet. Luckily Voey knows about cars. The oil was leaking and had completely run dry. Smoke was coming off it. Even luckier still, Voey had phone reception.

He called the car rental company and told them what had happened. The owner collected Voey and I and took us back to town. I paid for my car and Voey hired his, then we were taken to the airport, collected a 4WD and drove back to my car. We unloaded the luggage and off we went in the new car.

We stopped at the recreation centre as it had the only cafe on the island that was open after 12:30pm but only Glen bought any food. We went back to town for Voey to check in at his accommodation for the next few days. He then drove us to the airport where we were collected by Jess for our three nights at Swell Lodge.

Swell Lodge

Swell Lodge consists of two ecotent-esque structures built on the edge of the national park. Each unit has a bedroom/kitchenette with a bathroom and a balcony that looks out over the ocean to the west. It’s lush and isolated.

We were picked up and put into a 4WD then driven into the national park. The rooms weren’t ready yet so we stopped at Merrial Beach, which is a short walk through the rainforest and over jagged rocks.

The beach itself isn’t very big, probably no more than 5m x 5m. It’s rocky and you can’t go out too far without getting swept away but it’s secluded and lovely. Apparently the local custom is that if you find a car parked at the start of the trail then you leave so whoever’s already down there can continue to enjoy it by themselves. Hopefully they’re all right and haven’t swept out to sea or suffered some other disaster. Glen loved this beach.

After half an hour we were taken to our accommodation, girls in one unit, boys in another. We can’t see each other’s unit from where we are, not even from the balcony. Food and drink provided, hot running water (though we’re encouraged to use it sparingly), compost toilet, solar power, big bed and sofa bed, and a view to die for. Boobies fly past and I watched the rain roll in. Only downside is the mossies so sitting outside at the moment isn’t the greatest, but we can sit inside and have an unobstructed view.

The French chef arrived at our chalet at 6:45 for our three-course meal of dahl, fresh caught mahi-mahi, and a floating island meringue. Yummy. Lights out by 8pm as there’s not much else to do. I read for a while and then tried to sleep with the thunderous crash of the waves outside.