We continued our journey south on 4 March with a planned stop at Pendulum Cove on Deception Island, which is not an island at all but the caldera of an active volcano.
Deception Island 62°57’S 060°38’W Ring-shaped island 8 mi in diameter, with a narrow entrance into a central landlocked harbour (a drowned breached crater), lying nearly 10 miles south of Livingston Island, in the South Shetland Islands. The name dates back to at least 1821 and is now established in international usage.
Pendulum Cove 62°56’S 060°36’W Cove at the north-east side of Port Foster, Deception Island, in the South Shetland Islands. The name of the cove derives from the pendulum and magnetic observations made there by the British expedition under Foster in 1829.
We got up earlyish to watch the passage through Neptune’s Bellows, the narrow passage into the sheltered harbour inside Deception Island.
We passed the remains of the British research station that was destroyed during a volcanic eruption in, I think, the 70s.
This station was destroyed just after the Chilean station was destroyed in the same eruption when the Chilean scientists had sought refuge there. It doesn’t sound like anyone was killed.
The Spanish and Argentinian research stations are still there.
Also during the journey we saw a whole lot of Chinstrap Penguins on the slope to our left (port?) and down on the beach were a heap of seals (fur seals, maybe?) beside an old shipwreck.
Very Antarctica.
We were the second expedition group to go ashore that morning. We landed on the black rock beach, climbed out of the zodiac, and went for a clockwise walk.
We could stand at a distance and look at the twisted ruins of the research, though for me the exciting thing was see small patches of green vegetation.
The heat from the volcano must help a few lifeforms grow.
Taking the plunge
After our 30–45-minute walk on the beach, we returned to where the boats disgorged people and prepared for our polar plunge.
A few people had got to do it before us but at least they showed it could be done.
We registered with the doctor on shore (so we could get our polar plunge certificate), grabbed a towel, and then disrobed in the 3°C cool air.
Stripped down to my speedos, I ran into the water, my feet getting hit with one centimetre of warm water before the cold swept in, and I kept running.
Once I was deep enough I dove into the water, fully submerged, and launched myself straight up as the chill hit.
God damn it was cold — though later I found out it was only 4°C. Not even sub-zero! Maybe next time then.
I then ran back to shore and wrapped myself up in a towel. The ambient temperature was now so much warmer!
Glen ran in…up to his knees then turned around and ran back to shore. He still got a certificate.
We then watched a few more people, including Ravinder, go for a dip, as it took us ages to get all our clothes back on.
Warm again, we jumped back into the zodiac and returned to the ship.
I went for a dip in the jacuzzi (could have been hotter) and the pool and then a lie in the sauna, which was a treat.
Rocks ’n’ whales
We had lunch then Glen, Narelle, and Ravinder played Ticket to Ride in the Explorer Bar while I edited photos.
Two Frenchmen came by and thought I was a professional photographer and wanted to see my photos so I showed them. It was a bit bizarre.
They also didn’t speak English so we had to rely on my crap French. We survived.
Glen and I went for a nap, then watched a bit of a lecture about the technical aspects of the ship (though we only saw the last 15 minutes and I couldn’t quite follow).
After a lecture on seals, Glen and I joined one other doctor at the microscopes for a geology lesson.
The igneous rocks were more interesting — though not more interesting that the Humpback Whales that kept popping up outside the window.
I felt sorry for the geologist.
About 200 Humpback Whales passed the ship over the course of about three hours.
Apart from the three cetacean researchers, we all got very excited about seeing the backs of the whales and the occasional fluke.
It was a real treat despite not seeing a helluva lot. Still, whales!
Whale spotting occupied most of the rest of the day, with a lecture thrown in at the end about the next day’s activities, followed by another four-course dinner in the restaurant.
I’m going to be as fat as some of these seals by the end of it…and without the excuse of needing all the blubber to keep warm.
Travels with Dan 
What do you say, eh?