We’d heard a lot of good things about Kyoto…which always worries me. Other people’s experiences and high praise of things usually results in me being underwhelmed. Nevertheless, Kyoto appeared to be offering a bit more of the ‘Japanese’ experience than being surrounded by a lot of foreigners (mostly Aussies) in the snowfields of Hokkaido. We’d been to Tokyo last time so Kyoto was the next destination after Niseko.
A long day of travel
For such a small (group of) island(s), it took a long time for us to get from Niseko to Kyoto. On Thursday we took the shuttle from Niseko (probably a little earlier than necessary) to New Chitose airport and then had about three hours to kill there. (We shopped, ate and looked at the inner workings of the chocolate factory.)
Then we flew down to Osaka (a couple of hours) and then caught a train to Kyoto (another couple of hours) and then a subway to near our AirBnB. We arrived at about 8pm so it was nearly 12 hours worth of travelling.
I’d booked an AirBnB because Glen and I wanted something that was a bit ryokan like. We probably should have paid for a proper ryokan guesthouse but instead we got someone’s house. It was bloody freezing until we put all the heaters on. It was quaint and small, with tatami mats and sliding paper doors. I guess that’s what we were after.
After the host left us, we went looking for a restaurant, finding one that had pictures of a few dishes and then an eel drawing on the sign. I had reservations but Glen was gun-ho so we went in.
They only served eel. Glen doesn’t eat eel. But by then we were inside (we were the only other set of customers in there apart from a man and woman) and we’d been given tea. So we ordered one meal between the two of us, which had rice, soup and some veg, as well as grilled eel.
The eel wasn’t bad and I made the way through it for the both of us. The restaurant was warm, a family affair, and an adventure. Glen was still a bit horrified. We then went to the supermarket downstairs and bought things for breakfast and snacks, then went home and snuck off to bed with the heaters on.
Temples, monkeys and markets
We roused ourselves early enough on Friday morning to go meet our friend Ravinder, who was also in town from Perth for a few days, at the Golden Pavilion. This meant taking a couple of buses. Thank god for Google. We figured it out and luckily I’d read how to use the system and what you paid in Lonely Planet. We caught our two buses, the second (205), full of tourists (and some monks) heading to the very popular Golden Pavilion.
We didn’t see Ravinder and she didn’t have wifi so we went in, navigating around tourists. Golden Pavilion was beautifully scenic, especially when the pond was still and reflective. We eventually got away from the crowds and wandered around the rest of the gardens. The crowds intensified again at the souvenir stands. We then exited and sat to have a bit of food and to see if we could find Ravinder. Glen eventually spotted her; she was looking for us too. Mission accomplished.
We caught a taxi to the bamboo forest, having a few bits of food at the food stalls just at the entrance. I had one of those fish pastries with the red bean paste centre, and then a blobby dough thing dipped in sugar soy sauce, which was gross.
The bamboo forest wasn’t as impressive as we were all expected, probably to do with it only being a small area and you walk along a stone path rather than through the forest. But there was a really nice bit so I was happy.
Next stop was the monkey park but we stopped along the way, besides the river, and had some lunch. Ravinder and I had a really nice set menu thing with some fried croquette things, vegetable selection, miso soup and rice. I loved it. Glen’s wasn’t so enjoyable for him.
Across the bridge to the monkey forest and then the killer walk up the hill to the top where the macaques were. They were wandering around and there was a caged building where you go inside and feed the macaques hanging outside. It was pretty cool, though they’re fairly habituated and probably very overweight.
And then we wandered down, walked to the train, caught that all the way to near Ravinder’s hotel and the Nishiki Market. We went through Takashimaya department store, ogling all the desserts and chocolates and sweets, then the different food on display. We bought some sweets and then some pastries, walked down some shops in the Nishiki area.
Glen bought some new shoes – FINALLY! He’s been moaning about those shoes for god knows how many years and on god knows how many trips.
It took forever to get through the shops and I was glad when we finally reached the hotel and stopped for a drink and some food. We then walked through more markets and I bought some new hiking type shoes to replace my boots as they’ve got a hole in them.
A lot of the Nishiki Market was closing down as it was late so we walked more streets, into Gion, saw where the geisha restaurants were (and caught a glimpse of three real geishas rushing into a building beneath the flash of cameras.
We then walked along the street behind the river. By this time I was hangry and tired and just wanted to eat but there were the usual problems of not being able to read the menus or finding something we can settle on.
We eventually choose a place where you cook your food on a hot rock. We had the big room with the window view all to ourselves. Ravinder and I had the fish set and it wasn’t bad. I was just glad to eat.
After dinner, we said our goodbyes and Glen and I caught a taxi home and returned to the freezing house. We had more to do tomorrow.
Travels with Dan 
What do you say, eh?