Friday was the day I’d been waiting for for the past year: snorkelling with Beluga whales. We left the Polar Inn at 10, getting down to the launch and pulling on our 7mm thick dry suits. They’re uncomfortable things, a bit claustrophobic, but designed to keep the cold out (although mine had a hole under one arm so I got a bit cold).

We were divided into two groups of four. We were with two women from Winnipeg. We jumped into the zodiac and headed out to Hudson Bay where the water was clearer.

Along the way saw another polar bear mum with her cub walking along the rocks. We spent a while watching them another bonus of this trip. This has really proved to be an excellent time of the year to come up here.

Having had our polar bear fix, we went off to find whales. We spotted a couple of pods but not that many. The guide thinks there might have been orcas somewhere out in the bay, which spooks the Belugas. But we found a spot and jumped in.

The suits take a while to get warm and you feel like you’re taking on water (plus the hole in mine was a bit of a problem). You also can’t swim in them as you’re so buoyant.

It took a while for the Belugas to come near us, and when they did they kept their distance, but it’s quite something to see these long, slender white animals soaring through the water below you. At times they released their held air and giant bubbles rise up. It was a sight to behold.

After a bit, we got back into the zodiac and headed out to find more whales. It took some time, and we had to head back towards Cape Merry, but we found them. We jumped in. So many whales swimming around. We ducked our heads under, called out to them, they swam underneath us, turning as they went to look back up at us. Amazing!

They didn’t come as close as I’d hoped or thought they would, but still the whole thing was worth it. After a while, I began to get cold and really had to pee (you’re not meant to pee in the suits), and we climbed back in the zodiac. It was then that the whales went into a feeding frenzy and we were right in the middle of it.

They swam underneath the zodiac. White and grey backs breaching everywhere we looked. An awe-inspiring sight. We were so lucky.

Back on land, the winds were rolling in and a bit of bad weather was on the way. I ripped off my suit as quickly as I could, went to pee (such a relief), got back into regular clothes and went back to town.

Lunch up next. We went to the Seaport again, had disgruntled service once more so we won’t be going back again this trip (despite the tastiness of their chocolate milkshakes). Back at the hotel, we fell asleep for three hours, woke up, went for dinner at Tundra Pub again, and then back to the Polar Inn to relax in the evening.

It doesn’t get dark until 10:30 or so, which can be a bit disconcerting. An air-raid siren goes off at 10pm to signal the unenforced curfew, letting people know what time it is.