FOMO versus FOMD in the Galápagos Islands

Today was our last full day in the Galápagos Islands. I knew what I wanted to do – Charles Darwin Centre, Tortuga Bay (or Garrapataga) and El Chato Tortoise Reserve – but once today arrived, enthusiasm waned. Luckily FOMO (fear of missing out) won over my FOMD (fear of making decisions).

After breakfast we walked to the Charles Darwin Research Station, which is about fifteen minutes out of town. At 7:30 the weather was already humid and oppressive. Walking anywhere was unpleasant.

We had a look in the gift shop (I read a very depressing kids book about Lonesome George) then walked around the different breeding pens. Once again we saw tortoises of different shapes, sizes and ages, including some that were only a few months old.

We didn’t stay long as the heat was getting to us. On the way back we stopped at the little beach that is near the station. Glen read his book while I went for a refreshing dip in the sea, snorkelling around and looking at the fish.

On the shore were thee marine iguanas that were busy feeding on the algae/plant stuff that grows on the rocks. I could barely see what they were eating but they seemed happy enough. Tiny tiny crabs (they must have only just hatched) were also scampering across the rocks. At that size they’re black with white tips on their claws. Practically unnoticeable.

We went back to the hotel about 9am and lounged in the hotel for a while. Because of the heat, our willingness to go anywhere else was lacking. I could live without going to Tortuga Bay or Garrapataga because it didn’t have anything we hadn’t seen already. But El Chato has wild Galapagos tortoises, and I’d only seen them in a captive situation.

Should I go? Should I forget about it? The question gnawed at me for hours. What if it wasn’t worth the effort? What if it takes forever to get there and it’s really hot?

I read up a bit on it to help with my indecision and I saw that you had to go on quite a walk to get to where you needed to go. I hadn’t expected a hike. And one description said someone had actually died on one of the trails.

Glen and I decided to go to lunch and I brooded on it some more. Eventually, and sensibly, I decided that I would regret not going. Glen wasn’t keen so at 1:30 I had the concierge hail me a cab and organise for it to take me there, wait, then bring me back. All for $35.

I’d read in the guide book that you can hire a cab driver for half a day for about $30 (in 2012) and as I thought I’d be gone for a while, I agreed and off we went. Once settled in the car, zooming into the highlands, I knew I’d made the right choice.

During the drive, it started to rain a bit. Luckily it stopped along the way because I didn’t have a jacket or an umbrella.

Turns out El Chato is very easy to get to and I didn’t need to trek for miles at all. We saw a wild tortoise on the side of the road, which was very cool, and there was another in a field with some cows.

Pulling into El Chato, one of the guides or owners or caretakers or whatever he was, told me which way to go and said not to touch the animals or use flash. No fear there (though I’m sure plenty of people do).

I saw about 15 wild tortoises, a few right on the path, others just a little way off. One was submerged in an algae-covered lagoon. One of the big ones hissed at me as I walked past.

Taking one turn and then another, I was worried I’d get too far lost. I needed have worried. Within about fifteen minutes I was back where I’d started, somehow doing a complete loop.

I then went to check out the lava tunnels but despite there supposedly being lighting inside the tunnels, I didn’t fancy descended the dark steps by myself, lest I slip and fall and never be heard from again.

All up I was there about 25 minutes. The drive took half an hour each way. All up, $35 for an hour and a half’s work. Still, it saved me a lot of hassle.

Driving through the highlands is like driving through Jurassic Park, I thought this as we went along and then realised it makes sense. We think of Jurassic Park as a fictional location when really the movie was filmed in Costa Rica, or somewhere similar. It makes sense that we’d see this tropical landscape for real and that it’s not just some made-up location. Combined with old, old tortoises, it’s kind of cool.

Glen was surprised to find me back so soon, especially as I’d said if I wasn’t back by six, he was to send for help. He was glad I made it back alive. I’m glad I went. I feel content now and can go home without that feeling of regret.

We whiled away the rest of the afternoon in the hotel room, reading books (I think I’ve gone through about six books of various length on this holiday so far, and halfway through another already).

Just after six we went in search of food, making the unwise choice of going to the Chinese food place on the street with the streetside dining. Why we thought it would be any good I have no idea? It didn’t even resemble Chinese food. We ate our full though (there was a lot of protein) and then waddled home, checking out souvenir shops along the way (Glen bought a Galapagos national park patch for his backpack).

Tomorrow we head back to Quito. I’ve already mostly packed so we don’t have to rush. I feel very happy with what we’ve achieved on this holiday and all the things we’ve seen. The bumpy boat rides are now a distant memory.

Will I come back to the Galápagos Islands? Right now I have no burning desire but if someone asked me if I wanted to go with them (and this time on a cruise), I would say yes (and hopefully be able to go). Until then, I have about 2000 photos (before editing) and a couple of hours of video to keep the memories alive. It really has been a very special trip.

What do you say, eh?

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